Displaying similar documents to “Waves and wave groups in deep water.”

Waves of excitations in heterogeneous annular region II. Strong asymmetry

Kristóf Kály-Kullai, András Volford, Henrik Farkas (2003)

Banach Center Publications

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Excitation wave propagation in a heterogeneous medium around a circular obstacle is investigated, when the obstacle is located very eccentrically with respect to the interfacial circle separating the slow inner and the fast outer region. Qualitative properties of the permanent wave fronts are described, and the calculated wave forms are presented.

Shoaling of nonlinear steady waves: maximum height and angle of breaking

Franco, Sebastião Romero, Farina, Leandro

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A Fourier approximation method is used for modeling and simulation of fully nonlinear steady waves. The set of resulting nonlinear equations are solved by Newton's method. The shoaling of waves is simulated based on comparisons with experimental data. The wave heights and the angles of breaking are analysed until the limit of inadequacy of the numerical method. The results appear quite close to those criteria predicted by the theory of completely nonlinear surface waves and contribute...