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Shoaling of nonlinear steady waves: maximum height and angle of breaking

Franco, Sebastião Romero, Farina, Leandro (2015)

Application of Mathematics 2015

A Fourier approximation method is used for modeling and simulation of fully nonlinear steady waves. The set of resulting nonlinear equations are solved by Newton's method. The shoaling of waves is simulated based on comparisons with experimental data. The wave heights and the angles of breaking are analysed until the limit of inadequacy of the numerical method. The results appear quite close to those criteria predicted by the theory of completely nonlinear surface waves and contribute to provide...

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